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Crafternoon Treats: Perfect Fit Crochet Socks Part Two

Crafternoon Treats: Perfect Fit Crochet Socks Part Two
Kathryn Senior of Crafternoon Treats is back with Part Two of her fabulous Perfect Fit Crochet Socks tutorial. Get your hooks at the ready and read more here...

The first part of your sock should have caused you little grief. If you missed the first tutorial you can find it here and the full sock pattern here
It used only basic crochet stitches and techniques, perhaps just in a new way for you. 

Yarn used for this tutorial is a 4ply sock yarn.

We’re now ready to turn the heel of the sock using crochet short rows and then form the gusset using decreases. This all sounds complicated and looks virtually impossible when its written in ‘pattern speak’, but its really easy to do.

First up, we will turn the heel so that your sock looks like mine above. It looks very like the proper turned sock heel that knitters use in their sock heels. 

Right, let’s get started.
You have completed your heel flap, which is 25 dc stitches wide. For the first row of your heel turn, you’ll be working on the wrong side (so the inside of your heel flap). 

Row 1: Make a turning chain of 1 as normal, and then work 18 dc stitches and stop. This is your first short row. The last 7 stitches of the row are left unworked.

You now turn your work to start row 2. 

Row 2: Make a turning chain of one as normal, and then work a dc stitch into the next 11 stitches, leaving the remaining 7 stitches unworked.

You now have something that looks like a short, slightly wonky castle turret, with a ‘step’ on each end of your second row. 

Turn your work. 

Row 3: Chain 1 to turn and work a dc stitch into each stitch until you reach one before the ‘step’ at the end of the row.

You are now going to work two dc stitches together (a dc2tog) across this ‘step’. 

The first half of your dc2tog goes into the last stitch of the ‘step’ and the second half is down in the next stitch below.

Finish the row with a dc stitch into the next stitch. 

Row 4: Turn your work, make a turning chain, and then work dc stitches into each stitch until the one before the ‘step’. Repeat the dc2tog in exactly the same way, following it by a dc into the next stitch in the row below the ‘step’. 

Rows 5 -8: You now just repeat row 3 with the dc2tog across the step, followed by a dc until you only have one unworked stitch left on each side. 

Rows 9: Turn your work, chain 1 to turn, and then complete your last dc2tog before turning to complete row 10. 

Row 10: Turn your work, chain 1 to turn, and then complete your last dc2tog. 

All those unworked stitches have been used up and you have turned your heel.

You now have a lovely 3D heel, but you’ve also made a sock with a gaping hole… its far to wide to fit snuggly around your foot, so the next part of the sock, the gusset, involves doing decreases to reduce it down.

The first step is to place two stitch markers in the last space at each side of the foot. These will mark the points before and after which you make your decreases.

Round 1: Join yarn B at the back of the heel, where it meets the heel flap. The first task is to work a complete round, going into: 

• The 17 stitches across the back of the turned heel
• The 11 rows of the heel flap
• The 31 stitches of the foot section (1dc in marked space, then 14 x [ch1, dc1] to maintain the pattern)
• The 11 rows of the other side of the heel flap. 

To avoid any gaps, I recommend that you crochet 17 dc across the back of the heel, then space 12dc stitches evenly down the first side of the heel flap, work across the foot and then make 12dc stitches evenly up the second side of the heel flap. Those two extra stitches make sure you don’t get any holes when you wear your sock.

You will now have a round with 72 stitches in total, including the ch1 spaces across the front of the foot. 

Round 2: This round is the set up round that re-establishes the ch1, dc1 pattern. To do this, work ch1, dc1, working the dc stitch into every other stitch around the heel flaps and heel. The dc stitches go into the chain spaces across the front of the foot.

You are now almost ready to start decreasing but it’s a good idea to read through this section first, so you know the overall plan. 

Its important to keep the same number of stitches across the front of the foot, making the decreases before the first marker and after the second. You will work a decrease round, decreasing two stitches at each side of the foot, followed by a straightforward round with no decreases. This is done to make sure your decreases don’t happen too suddenly. 

If you find your sock is getting too tight, you can crochet two straightforward, no-decrease rounds between each decrease rounds if you want. You will then have fewer foot rounds to do before your toe. 

However, you have to do a little zig zag with your marker as you are working now into the chain spaces, not into the stitches. Don’t get too stressed about this as the finished sock doesn’t have a very obvious gusset line. 

Just make sure that your decreases stay at either side of the foot and are in the direction shown below:

If you think of the angle between the heel flap and the sock front as being approximately 90 degrees, the gusset decreases go at approximately 45 degrees. 

What you want to avoid is making your decreases in the foot section, as then the sock will pull tight and won’t feel comfortable. 

In total you will need to work at least 10 rounds. This will reduce your stitch count around the sock by 4 stitches every 2 rounds, so 72, then 68, 64, 60 and down to 56. 

The pattern also suggests an optional extra repeat, which can take your stitch count down to 52 stitches if that gives your sock a better fit. Its possible to make the sock much snugger than the leg, simply because you don’t have to get it over your heel!
The two rounds below (copied from the pattern) are the crucial rounds. In round 3 you will decrease by making a dc2tog across two chain spaces, effectively decreasing by two stitches each time (1dc + 1 chain). 

Round 3: • Work [dc1, ch1] into each chain space around until two chain spaces before the first marker. 
• Dc2tog in these two chains spaces, ch1, then dc into the next stitch. Replace the marker in the chain space just made. 
• Dc1, ch1 to the next marker. 
• Dc, ch1 into the marked chain space, then dc2tog in the next 2 chain spaces. Replace the marker in the chain space just made. 
• Ch1, then dc1, ch1 to the end of the round. [68 stitches] 

In round 4 you will work around in the ch1, dc1 pattern without decreasing. 

Round 4: Work [dc1, ch1] into each chain space. [68 stitches] 

You then repeat rounds 3 and 4 to decrease down to the original 56 stitches you had around the leg. Try the sock on at this point – if its too tight, take back too rows and continue without decreasing in round 9. If its not tight enough, complete the extra decrease in the optional round 11.
By the time you have finished the gusset, your sock is looking much more like a sock and should fit your foot well. In this sock yarn and stitch pattern, the line of the gusset blends in so well you can barely see it. I’ve marked it on the identical photo on the right…

Congratulations for getting this far – we’re now on the home straight with only the foot and toe section to go. That will be in the last part of this crochet sock series, and I’ll take you through the final bit of crochet and through to washing and blocking your socks! See you next week!