Welcome to Part Three of the perfect fit crochet sock tutorial. This is where we got up to last time… you have turned your sock heel and have completed the gusset decreases and you are now in the home straight.
If you missed the previous tutorials you can find Part One here and Part Two here, plus find the complete sock pattern here. Yarn used in this tutorial is a 4ply sock yarn.
All that remains is the foot section and the toe – easy peasy! And then finishing your socks so that they look and feel fabulous.
The foot part of your crochet sock is the easiest part. You need to remove one of your stitch markers and use the other to keep count of the number of rows you work in the foot section. Make a note of how many rows you do for your foot so that you can make your second sock just the same.
Using your 3mm hook and yarn B, work in the pattern in rounds without increasing or decreasing. Just keep the same number of stitches each time. You can work from round to round without joining with a slip stitch so that you avoid any obvious seam.
Carry on and try your sock on to find the point where your foot section reaches the start of your toes, which is usually about 2.5cm from the end of your big toe.
You will think this is too short but you need to leave room for the toe and for about 1.5cm of ‘negative ease’. This means that your sock will be 1.5cm shorter than your actual foot. When you put it on it will stretch over the length of your foot, giving you a perfect and comfortable fit.
When you reach this point, crochet to the marker then join the round with a slip stitch and fasten off yarn B.
I crocheted the toe of my sock in the contrasting colour, yarn A to match the cuff and heel, but you can make the whole sock in yarn A or yarn B if you like.
Before you start on the toe, it’s important to get the position of your stitch markers right so that your toe has its decreases in the correct place.
To do this, turn your sock with the heel towards you and flatten out the toe section, like this:
Round 1: Using your 2.5mm hook, join yarn A at the bottom of the foot section, where the join will not be obvious, and dc into each stitch around.
Decrease rounds 2-10: In all subsequent rounds, work up to two stitches before the each marker. Work 2dc stitches together (one decrease) before the marker, work a dc into the marked stitch and work 2dc stitches together (one decrease) after the marker. Move the markers up as you work.
This will reduce the stitch count of each round by 2 stitches in each round and you will see the toe taking shape very quickly:
If you finish with 22 stitches, or 18 stitches, that is fine.
As a guide, your toe section should have about 10 rounds.
If you prefer you can use a darning needle to sew the seam together. And if you really had a seam inside your sock, you can make the join on the outside, rather than the inside.
When weaving in each end, make sure you work in a direction that will not affect the stretch of the sock. So, work along the toe seam, along the direction of the cuff ridges and lengthways in the main body of the sock (not widthways).
If you want to take photos, you can make them look their best by blocking them. Everyone has their own method and this is just the one I use:
Handwash the socks gently with a tiny amount of woolwash, squeezing them only between your palms to get out excess water before rinsing. Squeeze gently again, then place them on a large, dry towel and use this to blot up more water.
Do not wring them out, because this can felt the wool and it can distort the socks.
Put the socks on a pair of sock blockers (you can buy these or make your own out of cardboard) and hang them up to dry. If its warm weather, they can go outside, just make sure they don’t blow away if it’s windy!
I usually hang mine in the kitchen and just leave them for 24 hours.
Your socks should now fit beautifully, feel soft and warm, and look just as good as knitted socks: